What’s the Mediterranean
diet?
by Nikki Rose
What’s the Mediterranean diet and who’s on it
anyway? Break out the world atlas and
take a look at the size of the Mediterranean region – the sea touches the shores
of many distinctly different countries.
Wow, does everybody eat the same thing everywhere? I’ve noticed that some countries have been
excluded from the Mediterranean Diet Club and are not even featured in those
coffee-table cookbooks – membership may have required a stable government and
luxury hotel accommodations for the research teams. How about the cultural, agricultural,
climatic, religious, economic influences of The Club members – are they all the
same? Are we missing some great stories
behind traditional dishes by deeming the entire region one generic
Oliveland? Sure, “fusion cuisine” is the
creative incorporation of flavors from other lands, but when you see a dish on a
California menu like “moussaka-canneloni” (two distinctly traditional dishes
from two different countries all rolled into one) is it fusion or
confusion? Cuisine and culture go hand
in hand and the more global we get the less homogenous we should be. The window into the culture of a nation is
through the kitchen -- you can learn so much about people when you know what
they eat and why. What would Bostonians
do if their beloved clam chowder was renamed “North American Clam Stew”? Even America has diverse and interesting
regional cuisine – more than the rap it gets overseas as a burgers & fries
nation, right?
Recap on the
history of The Diet phenomenon. Back in
the late 1950’s an American nutritionist, Ansel Keys discovered that many Cretan
men living in the mountain villages had a very low rate of heart disease and
cancer and lived to a very ripe old age.
He noted that they consumed lots of olive oil, but also looked at the
bigger picture (which is blurry now) of traditional Cretan cuisine and
lifestyle as a whole. Dr. Keys
conducted a 15-year comparative study of the cardiac disease and cancer rate in
Greece (Crete and Corfu), Finland, Japan, Italy, The Netherlands, The
United States, and Yugoslavia (known as the “Seven-Country Study,” although the
demographics seem odd). The results of
the study proved his hunch with low instances of either disease in Crete and
high instances in all other countries compared, except Japan, which didn’t fare
too badly. Hence, The Diet was
born.
When a story is passed on through the years,
it tends to vary (even to a level of sensationalism, as is the case here). Olive
oil was cited as a piece of the puzzle but the remaining pieces were lost along
the way. The Diet has taken many
marketing twists and turns since – everyone wants to be a Club Member, whether
they’ve paid their dues or not.
Ironically, Italy and France have managed to become Club Members, yet the
cardiovascular disease rates in both countries have never coincided with The
Diet’s premise. Granted, both countries
eat some of the same foods as the people of Crete and produce and consume their
own olive oil -- Italy even buys olive oil in bulk from Greece for their own
labels. However, Italy was a losing
country in the comparative study and just last year in France, a group of
cardiovascular disease patients were placed on the traditional diet of Crete
(not Provence) with very positive results.
None of this matters because the French and Italians are very good at
marketing -- so why bring up some old
story about Crete and risk competition?
I don’t think the competition would be too fierce because Cretans seem
perfectly content with the way things are.
I imagine there are many reasons why they haven’t flooded international
markets with their precious goods. The Diet’s premise was based on principals of
traditional Cretan cooking and lifestyle, but the interpretations we see
today change the rules of the game.
So olive oil is good for us. That can’t be the end of the story because
I’m almost sure we cannot survive on olive oil alone. Those healthy olive oil fanatics must be
eating something else to balance out this picture of gastronomic utopia. Just within the isle of Crete the cuisine
differs from region to region and there are many great stories -- often dating
back thousands of years -- behind every traditional dish. That’s what makes the food and culture so
special.
As these
studies emerged from Crete thirty years ago, a bit has changed since then. So what hasn’t changed? First, there’s the geography and climate
factor. Crete is a mountainous, rocky
island with only a few big cities and all that goes with them -- like pollution.
Aside from seasonal tourist spots, this is farming and fishing country, not a
metropolis. Olive and nut groves, fruit
orchards, grape vines and greenhouses cover nearly every inch of available
land. The summers are long, hot and dry
and winters are relatively mild with snowfall only in the mountains. The produce
is plentiful with intense concentrated flavor and color. The down side (for farmers, not holiday
makers) is this seasonal drought – making life more difficult than it already
is. Olive trees grow miraculously out of dry, rocky earth, that’s why there’s
more olives here than anything else. Cow’s milk butter is a luxury item as the
arid, mountainous land is not fit for cows.
Deep green, pungent extra virgin olive oil is produced in nearly every
tiny village, usually only by and for the community (the private reserve of
gold). Throughout Greece, many
people would not dream of purchasing
olive oil in a supermarket – they either make it themselves or know someone who
does. Everyone is partial to their own
village oil and even if they’ve moved away, they often return home to help
during harvest season or have a supply sent to them – it’s that important. There
are several large cooperatives in Crete who share their olive oil with the rest
of the world and most still follow traditional production methods – some have
won top quality awards in International competitions. Why not?
The Greeks have had thousands of years of experience in olive oil
production – the ancient Minoans traded it for precious metals and gems.
As for exercise, farming is hard, physical
labor so there’s no need to drive to the gym after work (haven’t seen one
yet). People are too busy tending to
their land or animals to sit at a computer and surf the net --even if they could
justify the need for a computer (the “net” is quite useful in the collection of
fish). Even if they’re not farmers by
trade, many people have a small patch of land for fruit and nut trees, a
vegetable garden and enough chickens for the family – and maybe a few sheep or
goats. Mostly for practical and
financial reasons, they also make a lot all their own foods like bread, cheese,
yogurt, vinegar, wine, etc., and pesticides are not even an option. There’s plenty of seafood – more frequently
consumed by the locals who live near the sea, often because it’s their own catch
or that of another family member. Recent
scientific studies have proven that fish is very good for us – so dash out and
get some! There are many villages tucked
so far into the mountains that I’m amazed that people manage to survive there –
but they have for this very reason. Throughout history the unwelcome visitor
(aka invader) to these parts has been met with Homeric resistance. Hence, many
traditional dishes (with great stories to match the flavor) from mountain
villages are based on survival tactics and the art of foraging for food in the
wild – now it’s posh.
So, depending on where they live, some people
eat more fresh fish than others -- cured fish being the norm in the
mountains. Many villages were inhabited
long before the automobile, refrigeration (stable or mobile) was invented, some
originally dating back nearly 4000 years.
Even with today’s modern roadways and vehicles providing faster access to
the shore, there’s traditional regional cuisine – which is not budging any time
soon. Most traditional dishes are
centered around religious holidays – and eating certain foods like meat and
dairy products is prohibited for long periods of time each year. In essence, Greeks who follow their
traditional religious calendar are part-time vegetarians. Times are changing, but we still have a
chance to discover what’s cooking here and why this little pocket of the world
is so important to modern scientists, nutritionists – and
us.
Well, that’s
all very nice, you say. We’re still
standing at the open fridge waiting for cooking advice – ready to devour a bag
of chips fried in some deadly oil just to take the edge off. Wait! The common denominator are those
dreaded fresh fruits and vegetables – tons of them. Every day on the average Cretan dinner table,
there may be a selection of five or six simply prepared vegetables – not just a
dollop of spinach fighting for recognition on the edge of a plate of prime
rib. Simple salads with tomatoes,
cucumber, green pepper, onion and olives are the norm for lunch AND dinner. Roasted and marinated green and red peppers,
beets, wild or cultivated greens, artichokes, zucchini and eggplant are also hot
ticket items. Cretans eat lots of dried
beans like yellow split peas (called fava), broad beans, chickpeas and
lentils. Some beans are just cooked
until tender, mashed a little bit and mixed with olive oil, onion and salt. There are many different types of freshly
baked bread, which is always on the table.
The finale is usually seasonal fruit (not baklava, etc.) like cherries,
honeydew and watermelon, grapes, figs, pomegranate, apples and oranges. We should be very jealous because a lot of
this stuff is also organic – a very expensive option for us – it’s too late, they’ve paved our
paradise.
Aside from the popular grilled or skewered
chicken, pork or lamb (souvlaki), there are a few things that Cretans eat on a
regular basis but are rarely mentioned in fancy food publications – maybe
because of the shock factor – like snails from the mountains, octopus, sardines,
smelts and other small, whole fish (crispy heads, bones, fins and all are
consumed), rabbit and other wild game, and some meats from head to foot on
occasion. Most people from
industrialized (or paved) nations prefer not to know if and when they’re eating
animal meat or innards – that’s why we have hot dogs, sausages or fancy paté –
to cover up the evidence. There’s plenty
of pigs’ head served in upscale Parisian restaurants – and some may find it more
acceptable when presented on silver trays in a sauce with other delicacies they
can’t pronounce.
As for starches and things, potatoes, pasta,
barley, and rice are prepared in many different ways – with a pretty even
percentage of weekly consumption.
Potatoes are often just baked or fried in a little olive oil, or steamed
with other vegetables for hot or cold combinations. Rice seasoned with onions and spices is
frequently used as a stuffing for many different vegetables and the infamous
grape leaves – which are great when made fresh.
Then there’s yogurt – eaten straight, used in savory sauces, topped with
fresh fruit, walnuts or a generous portion of aromatic Cretan honey – another
precious commodity in the ancient (and modern) world. Traditional Greek yogurt is made from sheep’s or goat’s milk,
and it’s thick like ricotta cheese. The
natural milkfat (also known as the flavor) is not extracted. I wish we had stuff like this in the States –
why they extract all the fat from yogurt is beyond me – it’s tasteless
gelatin. People always seem to read the
nutritional information on the back of a yogurt carton – something obviously
nutritious, but don’t dare glance at the info on a bag of potato chips. Yogurt is pretty easy to make at home with
cow’s milk – that is, if you’re not too busy.
I have yet to hear of a case where someone gained weight from eating too
much yogurt with 10% fat.
Cheese is
another favorite here and there are many different types (mostly sheep or goats’
milk, but some made from cows’ milk).
The list is long and requires a separate chapter but homemade variations
of feta, mizithra (a soft fresh cheese, sometimes similar in texture to New York
style cheesecake or ricotta depending on the cheesemaker), kasseri and
kefalotiri (hard cheeses similar to romano) still rule as part of the meal. Snacks may include fresh or dried fruits like
figs, apricots, raisins and nuts like peanuts, walnuts, almonds and delicious
roasted chestnuts. Last but not least
are the beloved olives – large or small, green, purple or black, preserved in
brine or not – take your pick, they’re everywhere. Wine is a given – but generally consumed in
moderation and always with food – not as heavily as we’ve witnessed in the
plate-breaking tourist spots or Hollywood productions. If everyone here lived like Zorba, we’d be in
trouble. Some men drink quite a bit of
raki, the local fire water distilled from grape must, which can be hit or miss
depending on the producers. Quite a few
raki fans around here are well over 80 years of age – I’m not sure how healthy
they are but they’re certainly living long!
It’s OK to drink a little too much and dance a little bit, but to get a
rip-roaring sloppy drunk is not acceptable behavior (this observation is based
on local rules of conduct, tourists noticeably exempt). Also, Greek women drink very little alcoholic
beverages, if at all, and smoking is a new, scarcely tolerable vice of the
younger generation. Good guess to say
the women are healthier here.
So, how do we put this all together on the
dinner table and live to be 100? Think
of a time when there was no section in your supermarket with food crammed into
boxes, bags or cans – YOUR DINNER made in a big building on the edge of town --
preparation conditions unknown without submitting a Freed convenience in our hectic, industrialized
world.
Now picture the farmers’ market with produce
harvested at peak ripeness that day, fresh fish straight off the boat, fresh
meats straight from the hills (the chickens and sheep share the olive groves –
roaming not to Hoboken, New Jersey) and fresh breads still warm from the
oven. Picture a nice trip to the country
to pick up your wild greens (and snails if you like), wine, olives, olive oil
and cheese from local producers. This is
rural Crete. This way of life is not
enticing to the younger generation – I can understand why – farming is a tough
life. There are supermarkets where you
can buy many good-quality items – and even imports if you want them, but
everyone here knows the difference between manufactured and home-grown quality
and they’d rather be sure of the source.
Besides, the price is often better without the middleman. I’m sure people live like this in many
regions of the world, but I’m in Crete and will not speculate or make
comparisons of places I’ve never been.
It’s not Manhattan and if everyone moves here – it will soon resemble
Manhattan – making the point moot. We
are not doomed to live short, unhealthy lives just because we can’t live
here. We have a choice – to wean
ourselves off the manufactured stuff to control the content of the foods we
eat. In short, to make a “fresh start”
and shift back to raw ingredients. How do farmers the world over plan their
meals? The conversation goes something
like this: “Honey, what’s ready to pick
today?”
On to
cooking techniques. The Cretan diet is
based more on technique than recipes.
Grilling is the number one choice here – we’re back to some ancient
basics. When considering the nutritional
benefits, picture this: meat set above
fire, fat dripping to the ground (or to the bottom of your fancy gas
grill). In the case of grilled fish –
it’s brushed with olive oil and grilled whole – tastes great. Grilling is easy and requires minimal
attention or pots and pans, that’s why I like it. For those of us who don’t enjoy grilling
during a winter blizzard, there’s roasting.
Mastering these two cooking techniques can make life much easier. All you need to know is when the food is
done. No fancy recipes or sauces are
required -- olive oil, lemon and your favorite herbs are great on anything
that’s prepared well – fish, chicken, steaks, burgers, lamb chops, vegetables,
whatever. Keep it simple. During the cooler season, Cretans braise
meats along with a variety of vegetables, starches or beans. Braising does require a bit of time and
attention, but stews taste better made in advance and often freeze well, so it’s
good for snowed-in days. Cretans also
make a number of fish soups – which are very subtle and delectable – just a
variety of bite-sized morsels simmered in fish stock with onions, potatoes,
carrots and a bit of parsley – sometimes with tomatoes. That’s it, nothing to it.
As for the preparation of vegetables, there
are a few standards here and most are seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice or
vinegar and salt (sometimes pepper, herbs and spices on certain
vegetables). I don’t know what Greeks
did without tomatoes – a rather recent addition from the new world -- because
you see them with almost everything.
Aside from eating them fresh with nearly every meal during the long
growing season, they make a basic tomato sauce (personal preference) and combine
it with dried beans and vegetables like string beans, zucchini and potatoes,
artichoke hearts or broad beans. It’s a
thin sauce which acts as a flavorful cooking liquid – retaining all the vitamins
– and great for dipping your bread. If
you just boil vegetables and drain the juice – guess where the vitamins are
going.
Another
common way to cook vegetables like cauliflower, artichoke hearts, stuffed
cabbage or vine leaves is to simmer them in a little stock or water and make a
frothy egg-lemon sauce (avgolemono) with the vegetable liquid. For greens like spinach or beet shoots, they
are often simmered in a little water until tender, served in a bowl with their
cooking juices and seasoned at the table with, you guessed it, lemon, olive oil
and salt. Greens are also sautéed in
olive oil (what else?), sometimes with garlic, leeks or onions and served with a
splash of lemon juice or used as the base for a variety of delectable vegetable
pies (chortopites). Try any combination
of greens commonly available at the supermarket like kale, collards, beet greens
or spinach using the same technique – bearing in mind that some greens are more
delicate and require less cooking time, so add them later on in the process.
Tomatoes, bell peppers, zucchini and eggplant are often stuffed with seasoned
rice with or without ground meats and baked or layered in casseroles with meat
sauce and bechamél sauce on top (i.e., moussaka). These complicated dishes are usually reserved
for special occasions. Learning cooking techniques as opposed to following
recipes opens up a whole new world of experimentation and makes cooking more fun
when you know there’s a basic formula to which you then add your
imagination. Enough ideas for now? Great, let’s eat!
Copyright World Culinary Arts 2000
Nikki Rose is a professional chef living in Crete and founder
of World Culinary Arts, dedicated to preserving culinary history via distinctive
educational seminars. Contact rosenikki@hotmail.com
Source: http://stigmes.gr/br/brpages/articles/med_diet.htm
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